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The first step is understanding the four C’s (cut, color, carat, and clarity), since they’re considered the global standard for gauging a diamond’s quality and value. 

Diamonds are given a grade reflecting their color, or rather, the lack thereof. This scale goes from D to Z, with D being absolutely colorless to Z being slightly colored. To make things slightly more complicated, there’s also the clarity scale, which measures whether the stone has visible flaws and goes from the coveted “flawless” grade to included (blemished).

Cut, on the other hand, refers to the proportion of a stone and how it’s polished. The quality of a diamond’s cut, graded from excellent to poor, determines how well it will interact with light and display that sought-after sparkle. While many confuse cut with shape, they’re not the same. Shape is simply the geometric outline in which a stone is cut into such as round, princess, or cushion, to name a few. 

Speaking of which, although not part of the four C’s, shape is also an important factor, and Wegman thinks it’s essential to understand how each stone’s shape displays the four C’s differently. For example, she explains, oval diamonds “show color in the tips, so you will want a higher color [grade]. However, they hide inclusions well so you can comfortably drop in clarity.” In other words, with an oval shape, it’s more important to focus on color than on possible blemishes.

On the other hand, emerald-cut diamonds “are just the opposite” of ovals, says Wegman. These don’t mask flaws as well as ovals so, if an emerald is your preference, make sure to focus on clarity. You can, however, go lower in the color grade without sabotaging the ring’s overall beauty. 

As for carat, Wegman says most people usually opt for the largest carat size they can afford. For those who dream of a massive diamond but don’t have the budget for it, she recommends going for elongated diamond shapes such as marquise, pear, or oval. “These will look the largest,” she explains.

However, while the 4 C’s are important when comparing rings, Wegman believes they shouldn’t be the “end all, be all” in your search for a beautiful ring.

“I always encourage people to look for a diamond that actually looks beautiful vs looking for a perfect diamond on paper. The GIA grading doesn’t always translate to how beautiful a diamond is,” she said.

Nevertheless, it’s wise to know your four C’s and use them as guidelines while picking between favorites, whether online or in-store.

If jewelry stores are still closed in your area, and you’re uneasy about making such a significant purchase online and without expert help, some stores are currently offering virtual appointments with in-house specialists. If not, take this time to do your research, analyze what’s available, and narrow down your options until you can visit a store safely.

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Cut

Color

Carat

Clarity